Eating organic heirloom-variety pork is a wonderful way to sample the rich, distinctly flavorful meat that our ancestors enjoyed for generations.

Pork from heritage breeds is moister and has a better flavor and texture than the pork from conventional hybrids. And the sustainable methods used by today’s small family farms to raise heritage breeds are good for the environment, too – so it’s a win-win-win situation for the earth, the pigs, and pork lovers like us.

What does “heirloom-variety organic pork” mean?

Once upon a time, farmers raised their pigs by letting them roam the woods and fields. These happy pigs didn’t look much like the great whites you see on conventional factory farms, in confinement settings.

How can you recognize a happy old-fashioned heirloom-variety pig?  They not only have plenty of access to the outdoors, but they are also fed a natural diet without antibiotics or added hormones. They are allowed to engage in natural behavior like rooting, wallowing and foraging. Pregnant sows are not crated. And lastly, these pigs don’t look like “standard” pigs: they descend from unique breeds that are gradually disappearing from the earth.

In fact, of the 15 breeds of pigs raised in the United States in the 1930s, only 9 survive today. Too many heritage breeds are in danger of becoming extinct. Their continued survival depends on increasing the market for pork that isn’t bland, white and dry – the qualities many Americans have come to expect from “the other white meat.”

Heritage breeds of pork

In the Midwest, heirloom-variety pork is available through small family farms. They raise pigs known as Berkshires, which originated in England 300 years ago. The breed is well known for its flavorful meat, well marbled with fat. Celebrated chefs as well as ordinary pork lovers prize Berkshires precisely because the meat doesn’t taste like chicken.

From Alice Waters at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, to Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, to Jean-Georges Vongerichten in New York City, the best American restaurants are now serving the best American heirloom-variety pork from organic farms.

If you’re interested in learning more, the American Livestock Breads Conservancy (http://albc-usa.org) maintains a watch list of breeds that are considered a conservation priority. Here are the breeds on the 2009 list:

• Choctaw
• Gloucestershire Old Spots
• Guinea Hog
• Large Black
• Mulefoot
• Ossabaw Island
• Red Wattle
• Tamworth
• Hereford
• Saddleback

Greensbury Organic Heirloom-Variety Pork Chops with Cranberry Chutney

This recipe is one of our favorite ways to bring together two American classics: heirloom-variety pork and American cranberries. Enjoy!

Serves 4

4 bone-in pork chops

For marinade:

2 shallots, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

For chutney:

4 tablespoons brown sugar

3 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 shallot, minced

2 cups cranberries, fresh or frozen

¼ cup golden raisins

2 teaspoons chopped fresh lemon thyme

Mix marinade ingredients in a 9″ x 13″ glass or ceramic dish. Add the pork chops and use your hands to rub the marinade into both sides of each chop. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.

To make the chutney, put the brown sugar, vinegar and shallot into a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the cranberries and cook until they pop, stirring often. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the raisins. Simmer for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the thyme.

The chutney may be made up to 2 days ahead of time and stored covered and refrigerated. Re-warm gently before serving.

To cook the organic pork chops, prepare grill or grill pan. Remove the chops from the marinade, wipe them dry and season with salt and pepper. Cook the chops over high heat, turning at least twice, until they feel almost firm, about 6-8 minutes for ¾-inch thick chops. Do not overcook. Serve with chutney alongside.

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