Reviving the Taste for Organic Pork (AKA “niche pork”)

June 22nd, 2010 horowitz Posted in Organic Meats, Organic Pork, Why Organic?, heirloom pork, heritage pork Comments Off

Once upon a time, pork producers came up with the phrase “the other white meat” to help boost public awareness of pork as a health-conscious choice.  Now there’s a new term in town: “niche pork.” Is this different than organic pork? Yes and no. Here’s the scoop.

Supermarket pork (“the other white meat”)

Traditional pork—let’s call it supermarket pork—all tastes pretty much the same. The problem with much supermarket pork is that it does indeed seem like “white meat,” and many people find it dry and bland.

Supermarket pork comes from pigs that have been bred to produce very lean meat. Hogs raised in indoor, industrial settings (usually penned in warehouses) tend to get little exercise and are fed the same monotonous diet whether they live in California, Iowa, or Pennsylvania. Because they do not live the ways pigs do naturally, and because they are confined during much of their lives, many people feel factory-farmed pigs are treated inhumanely. Additionally, this supermarket pork is usually not organic pork, meaning it is not guaranteed to be free or antibiotics or added hormones.

Niche pork (organic/heritage/sustainably raised by small farmers)

Niche pork is broad term for pork raised to appeal to a niche market. Small farmers are rediscovering heritage breeds (also known as heirloom breeds) such as Durocs, Berkshires, Red Wattles or Tamworths. These old-fashioned pigs tend to have more fat and produce richer, moister, more flavorful meat. A select group of consumers and chefs are learning to demand the premium taste of such pork, whether comes as a thick and juicy chop, a loin, or bacon.

Niche pork also appeals to those concerned about human animal treatment, sustainable farming, and organic standards. Many small farmers who raise heritage breeds allow them to graze in their natural environment, to forage, and to socialize.

Not all niche pork is certified organic pork. If you want to be sure your pork is organic, look for the USDA certified organic label. Here are some other terms you may see used to describe pork products. For a more complete list, visit http://www.nichepork.org.

Free Range – Also referred to as “pasture raised, free roaming, and raised outdoors.” The USDA standard to make this claim for pork is that hogs have had continuous access to pasture for at least 80% of their production cycle.

No Antibiotics Used, Raised without Antibiotics – “No antibiotics added” on the label means that the animals were raised without using antibiotics and that documentation has been provided to the USDA demonstrating this.

Natural – Pork products that meet compliance with USDA Natural Standards, which means the product contains no artificial ingredients or added color and is only minimally processed. The label must explain the use of the term natural (such as no added colorings or artificial ingredients; minimally processed).

100% Organic – Products produced exclusively using organic methods as defined by the USDA. Can carry the USDA organic certification seal.

Breed Specific – Just as there are breed-specific beef products like Certified Angus Beef, there are breed-specific pork products. Sometimes referred to as heirloom or heritage breeds, examples in the marketplace today include Berkshire (also knows as Kurobuta, meaning “black pig”), Duroc, and Tamworth.

AddThis Social Bookmark Button

Preserve your heritage: eat heirloom-variety organic pork!

February 13th, 2010 horowitz Posted in Organic Pork, heirloom pork, heritage pork Comments Off

Eating organic heirloom-variety pork is a wonderful way to sample the rich, distinctly flavorful meat that our ancestors enjoyed for generations.

Pork from heritage breeds is moister and has a better flavor and texture than the pork from conventional hybrids. And the sustainable methods used by today’s small family farms to raise heritage breeds are good for the environment, too – so it’s a win-win-win situation for the earth, the pigs, and pork lovers like us.

What does “heirloom-variety organic pork” mean?

Once upon a time, farmers raised their pigs by letting them roam the woods and fields. These happy pigs didn’t look much like the great whites you see on conventional factory farms, in confinement settings.

How can you recognize a happy old-fashioned heirloom-variety pig?  They not only have plenty of access to the outdoors, but they are also fed a natural diet without antibiotics or added hormones. They are allowed to engage in natural behavior like rooting, wallowing and foraging. Pregnant sows are not crated. And lastly, these pigs don’t look like “standard” pigs: they descend from unique breeds that are gradually disappearing from the earth.

In fact, of the 15 breeds of pigs raised in the United States in the 1930s, only 9 survive today. Too many heritage breeds are in danger of becoming extinct. Their continued survival depends on increasing the market for pork that isn’t bland, white and dry – the qualities many Americans have come to expect from “the other white meat.”

Heritage breeds of pork

In the Midwest, heirloom-variety pork is available through small family farms. They raise pigs known as Berkshires, which originated in England 300 years ago. The breed is well known for its flavorful meat, well marbled with fat. Celebrated chefs as well as ordinary pork lovers prize Berkshires precisely because the meat doesn’t taste like chicken.

From Alice Waters at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, to Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, to Jean-Georges Vongerichten in New York City, the best American restaurants are now serving the best American heirloom-variety pork from organic farms.

If you’re interested in learning more, the American Livestock Breads Conservancy (http://albc-usa.org) maintains a watch list of breeds that are considered a conservation priority. Here are the breeds on the 2009 list:

Greensbury Organic Heirloom-Variety Pork Chops with Cranberry Chutney

This recipe is one of our favorite ways to bring together two American classics: heirloom-variety pork and American cranberries. Enjoy!

Serves 4

4 bone-in pork chops

For marinade:

2 shallots, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season

For chutney:

4 tablespoons brown sugar

3 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 shallot, minced

2 cups cranberries, fresh or frozen

¼ cup golden raisins

2 teaspoons chopped fresh lemon thyme

Mix marinade ingredients in a 9″ x 13″ glass or ceramic dish. Add the pork chops and use your hands to rub the marinade into both sides of each chop. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.

To make the chutney, put the brown sugar, vinegar and shallot into a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the cranberries and cook until they pop, stirring often. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the raisins. Simmer for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the thyme.

The chutney may be made up to 2 days ahead of time and stored covered and refrigerated. Re-warm gently before serving.

To cook the organic pork chops, prepare grill or grill pan. Remove the chops from the marinade, wipe them dry and season with salt and pepper. Cook the chops over high heat, turning at least twice, until they feel almost firm, about 6-8 minutes for ¾-inch thick chops. Do not overcook. Serve with chutney alongside.

AddThis Social Bookmark Button